Is pink the new white? A complicated new era for rosé – Rosé has become a bit confusing these days – but it may be the most versatile wine of all


By Jon Bonne:

White-Tablecloth Pink

Part of making rosé a fully respectable creature – pulling it out of the last dregs of the Mateus era – is to put it on the table as a noteworthy bit of finery. In its best examples, pink wine has a hint of the depth and structure you’d want in an exemplary red, along with the freshness and acidity of a white.

Just as the best modern cuisine often plays between worlds – sweet and savory, cooked and raw, austere and luxurious – these are wines that do the same.

2013 Red Car Sonoma Coast Rosé of Pinot Noir ($20, 12.7% alcohol): Carroll Kemp’s pink interpretation of the Sonoma coast is so thoughtful and nuanced that you can almost miss how totally delicious it is. Sourced mostly from the Sebastopol hills, it’s delicately floral on one hand but showing full-force bright cherry-ice and mandarin fruit. Utterly suave.